Hvar Island
Places Along this Wine Trail to Explore
To Begin
To access this most iconic of all Dalmatian islands, there are three ferry landings (check updated schedules at the Croatian Government operated website here)
- Multiple passenger-only ferries that drop off in the heart of Hvar town (next to the row of luxury yachts that magically appear all throughout the year);
- Passenger/car ferries that arrive in Stari Grad, not far from Hvar town
- Both passenger-only and passenger/car ferries from the mainland from Drvenik that drop off on the eastern most end of the island at Sućuraj. This last ferry connection is short and easy, but the drive from Sućuraj – while scenic – is slow and long. Allow about an hour to reach the mid-island seaside village of Jelsa.
From the western side of the island (Hvar town or Stari Grad) or from the eastern side of the island (Sućuraj), a suggested beginning from either is Jelsa.
Jelsa
Jelsa is one of the more picturesque seaside villages in all of the Dalmatian coast. From Hvar town or Stari Grad, Jelsa would be a good place to start the Wine Trail as most of the wine experiences are between Jelsa and Stari Grad on this island. While it is a challenge navigating the road into Jelsa proper, it is worth it. Parking is likewise a challenge but once parked, the town is entirely accessible on foot.
The small harbor in Jelsa is bordered by a Riva that is as pleasant a stroll as anywhere – cars are not allowed in the heart of town. Restaurants and a few wine bars rim the harbor and a few outstanding wineries with tasting rooms are a bit further afoot.
Locate the wine shop PZ Svirče on the Riva, it is a cooperative organic growers association (transformed from past socialist production to the present day) located in the village of Svirče with their shop in Jelsa.
Try the Ivan Dolac Barrique, a rich and intense Plavac Mali – an organic gold medal award winner in Germany for consecutive years. From this wine shop, locate Jelsa Gelateria and head up that street.
Not far (a 5-10 minute walk) from that waterfront is Duboković Winery – a food and wine tasting experience. Since 1939, the Duboković family has operated this wine cellar and winemaker Ivo Duboković – who resides in the residence above the cellar — provides gourmet platters to enjoy with his hand-crafted wine that is sold in restaurants throughout Europe. “The taste of pure terroir in the glass” is how Ivo describes his classic red Plavac Mali under the label Medvid. He also has developed the first orange wine on Hvar. For a very reasonable price, his offerings include seven to eight wines, four types of olive oil, cheese and bread – full dinners with wine pairings may also be arranged. (Reservations are required, call +385-91-4410110). It’s also accessible by car from the western edge (Stari Grad side) of Jelsa.
Another worthy stop and uphill walk in the opposite direction from the Riva is Tomič Family Winery (Vina Tomič).
It’s accessible by car as well. Call ahead for a reserved time slot to enjoy a wine cellar tour and wine with cheese pairings in the excellent wine cellar. You are likely to see Andro Tomič, a native of Hvar, managing production and enjoying a sip with visitors.
The Tomič credo is: “Drink by the hour, not the liter.” This is carried through on their cellar tours as several wine tastings are offered in a relaxed setting for a reasonable base price.
Of these, Caplar is a wonderful blend of Cabernet and Plavac Mali. While Plavac Mali winemaking has been described as taming a wild horse, the smooth sophistication of Cabernet mellows the tannins and makes this a perfectly blended red wine (contact bastijana@gmail.com or call +385-21-762015).
Vrbanj
This small crossroads of a village sits between Jelsa and Stari Grad on the eastern edge of the plain that dominates the mid-island (where the ancient Stari Grad Plain is located). Historic Vrbanj has in the main square a house from the middle ages (Kraljev Dvor or King’s Palace) – Roman ruins also have been found here. The highest point on the island is a nearby hike at the peak St. Nikola – where there are sweeping views of the entire island.
Vrbanj has good, solid family run wineries and tasting rooms. Pavičić Vina for many generations has operated in the family’s old stone farmhouse and is on the main road across from the church tower (built in the 1500’s).
Brothers Milko and Luka are the winemakers and offer wine tastings in their easily accessible barrel room – standards Pošip and Plavac Mali are served with pride.
A bit out of the village (look for the sign on an old stone building and go right) down a short country lane is The Brothers Plančić Winery.
Vinarija Brača Plančić is worth the easy drive just to see real Croatian small farms up close. The wine tasting setting here is classic picnic tables outdoors, but don’t be fooled by this rustic ambience – the Plančić brothers Antun and Mario are among the largest wine producers on Hvar.
Try their local white wine variety Bogdanuša, light and floral, and their red wine Pharos made from Plavac Mali.
Stari Grad Plain
Vrbanj is located on the eastern edge of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, and from Vrbanj a drive around the perimeter will give one a sense of the scale of these still operational agricultural fields. Established by Greek colonists 2400 years ago, this place has been under cultivation in olives and grapes since. Original stone walls separating the parcels along with stone shelters used by the Greeks can still be found.
The layout of these fields has been maintained and preserved as well as the water distribution system. No finer example of an ancient agricultural operation can be found.
Selca kod
First established by Greeks from the island of Pharos in the year 384 BC is the deep water port of Stari Grad. Outside Stari Grad only 4 km by car is Selca kod.
A classic Dalmatian hilltop village, Selca kod is located above vineyards and fields of lavender. Lacman Family Winery operates wine tours from and maintains a friendly tavern in Selca kod. Amid the rustic stone houses, Ante and wife Mare Lacman offer food and wine pairings in a setting filled with amphora clay casks (stored underground) fermenting wine just as the ancient Greeks did.
Five course wine tasting with local delicacies is offered on a hilltop terrace overlooking the waters of the Adriatic from this remarkable setting.
If you want a unique wine experience steeped in antiquity, this is it. Call for tours and reservations +385-91-9438-675.
